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May 28, 2023

Aromas

Aroma is a word that is intrinsically linked to our sense of smell. Think about

Aroma is a word that is intrinsically linked to our sense of smell. Think about getting up in the morning and smell coffee brewing, or the aroma of steak grilling on your neighbor's patio. The first reminds one to walk to the kitchen for that morning wake up and the second possibly brings up plans for the holiday gathering with family and friends coming this Memorial Day Monday. And we all know that when we have a terrible head cold, not only is our sense of smell diminished, but no food tastes good either. "Taste" is actually comes more smell than from the tastebuds on our tongues.

Aromas are intrinsic to the enjoyment of wine. But, a finished wine only smells exclusively like the original grapes that are taken into the cellar and eventually emerge in a bottle. Rather, most of those final characteristics come from the components of the initial juice as it is transformed via fermentation and aging of the juice over months and sometimes years. In a finished wine, its final aromas come from a range of factors, including the grape variety itself, the soil in which it was grown, cellar techniques used to include skin contact, oak or stainless fermentation vessels, the length of aging and then the artful skills of a winemaker balancing everything together.

As soon as you open the bottle, the many aromas kick in. Then as you pour, swirl the wine, sniff, and then sip the liquid, many and varied smells become evident. All of these aromatic components taken together are called "nose." While each wine produces a complex set of aromas, each is typically known for its own, dominant ones. Sauvignon Blanc is usually described as smelling s somewhat like cut grass. In Pinot Noir, you will often find plum and raspberry. Chardonnays fermented in oak you fill smell something like freshly cut wood. Riesling, depending on where it is grown might show peach and melon but from other regions, will show pear and citrus. The "fun" of wine appreciation comes from exploring all the regions as their wines reflect the locations where they are grown as well as the talent of the many winemakers.

Sometimes the terms "aroma" and "bouquet" are used interchangeably. However, they are slightly different. Usually, "aromas" reference younger wines. "Bouquet" is often attributed to older wines as they "mature" in a barrel, tank and or bottle.

A great tool to help understand the various aromas in wine is one created in the 1970's by then UC Davis researcher, Ann Noble. She developed it as a uniform tool to use with other winemakers and researchers as they met to discuss and improve the quality of what they were producing in the early days of the California industry. Subsequently it has become the basic and standard device for all sensory discussions thought the country and even across the world.

The Wheel breaks down aromas into 3 related tiers. The inner wheel has 12 basic aroma descriptors such as floral, spicy, vegetative, and earthy. (It also lists negative attributes and is used to identify different types of spoilage and flaws.) From the dozen positive attributes in the center, the middle wheel has 29 subcategories such as dried, fresh, citrus, canned and nutty. The outer wheel then breaks down specific aromas within those subcategories, and is meant to help you pinpoint exactly what it is you are smelling and tasting. There are examples of the Wheel on the internet.

Here are some of the descriptors she uses and a few of the wines who represent those aromas.

Riesling would start in the center of the wheel with "fruity," then move out to "tropical fruit" and on to "melon," or from another growing region, it might move from "fruity," to "tree fruit," to "peach," and "apricot."

Pinot Noir will also begin with "fruity,’ but move to "berry," and then on to "raspberry," and perhaps "strawberry."

Oak aged Chardonnay might start with "woody," move to "resinous," and on to "oak," but also from "woody," to "phenolic," to "vanilla," but also from "woody," to "barrel," to "toasty," all depending on how the winemaker practiced his skills in the cellar.

On the flawed side, in one section, she starts with "chemical," and moves to "sulfur," and finally to a really negative term "wet dog!" (Yuch!)

For those trying to understand the nuances of wine appreciation and its many aromas, the Nobel Wheel, while being instructive, also provides lots of fun when those who enjoy wine get together for a tasting.

DONNIELLA WINCHELL is executive director of Ohio Wine Producers Association. She can be reached at [email protected].

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